Meat substitutes are the most popular among flexitarians. They see the plant-based alternatives mainly as convenient, even though the taste often leaves much to be desired. Why don’t producers focus more on combining meat with plant-based options? Printed in Financieel Dagblad on 20 sept 08:00 Written by: Daan Remarque, a psychologist and communications strategist.
I’m a foodie, so meat substitutes aren’t at the top of my list. But the other week, I thought I’d give it another try. It was manageable, though I could taste a lot of artificial and tricky ingredients. Suddenly, our dog was sitting next to me, making noises: 'Give me some too.' A Beyond Meat dog?
For climate and the environment, it would be better if we ate less meat, but it’s so delicious, and we’re so used to it. About 5% of the Dutch population is vegetarian or vegan, and this number has been stable for years. More vegetarians are unlikely, but also not necessary. The biggest gains can be achieved if that 95% reduces their intake of animal proteins.
Researchers from Wageningen asked people about reducing meat consumption. About 50% aren’t interested (yet), but 30% are planning to do so. When asked how, they mention smaller portions, replacing red meat with white meat, or meals with legumes, nuts, seeds, and mushrooms. Notably absent from their responses was the plant-based meat substitute. This surprised researchers Muriel Verain and Hans Dagevos. Are meat substitutes not an accessible way to reduce meat consumption? Certainly, but it’s never the case that you’re really craving it. You have to sacrifice ‘mmm, tasty,’ and that’s something only a small group of meat-eaters is willing to do. How small? The market share of meat substitutes is around 5%.
Risk of "I don't like this
The researchers from Wageningen examined who actually finds meat alternatives popular: ambitious flexitarians. According to research by Unilever, the average Dutch person has about seven dishes in mind that they prepare week in and week out. Most home cooks are, therefore, creatures of habit. Guaranteed success is more important than surprise. They rarely cook from recipes: there is too much hassle with exotic ingredients and unfamiliar preparations and too much risk of failure or ‘lussikniet’ (a colloquial term for a cooking failure).
If there are two meatless dishes in your regular rotation, you’re a light flexitarian. If you’re more ambitious than that—wanting to eat meat only one or two days a week—you’ll encounter a problem. You don’t know enough meatless dishes if you’re used to cooking with meat. You’ll have to learn to cook new successful meatless dishes (changing habits and taking risks, so it’s difficult) or substitute meat in your familiar dishes (maintaining habits, so it’s easy). And that’s how the ambitious flexitarian ends up with plant-based substitutes.
With mixed feelings, that is, because it’s almost as expensive as meat, and the die-hard meat eater (often a male) continues to mumble with a full mouth that real meat tastes better. Culinary professionals actually agree with the complainer: they prefer to cook with vegetables, legumes, and nuts. The unappetizing ingredient list doesn’t help either. The same goes for the plant-based frikandel: you really don’t want to know what’s in it.
Real Breakthrough
A pleasant standout in the land of meat substitutes is the vegetarian bitterball. At a reception, someone said to the waiter, 'Excuse me, those two bowls of bitterballs were delicious, but which one was the vegetarian?' The response: 'Both, sir.' One in four bitterballs in the hospitality and food service industry is now plant-based, so that’s progressing quite rapidly.
What can we conclude from this?
Meat substitutes are not made for vegetarians (their dishes rarely contain a meat component that needs to be replaced), but for meat-eaters. Animal meat remains the reference point.
Meat substitutes are not eaten because they are so delicious, but for convenience.
Supply creates demand, even though people often think it’s the other way around. There is not little demand for vegetarian pâté; there is little demand for bad vegetarian pâté with dubious ingredients.
Among the masses, ego takes precedence over eco. Once essential characteristics like price, preparation, texture, and taste (ego) are comparable, people will easily switch to plant-based options, as then sustainability (eco) is a nice bonus. Most people have good intentions and are trend-sensitive. Consider the plant-based bitterball and, for example, the success of oat milk in coffee.
The taste and texture of meat substitutes are gradually improving, but a real breakthrough lies in the insight from point 1 above: if you’re not making it for vegetarians, it doesn’t have to be vegetarian. Minced meat is by far the most consumed type of meat. Mix animal and plant-based, and you easily create a tasty product. Lidl recently introduced 60/40 minced meat. The new half-and-half, so to speak. This makes reducing meat consumption much easier and more appealing. If you conceal the plant-based portion, the carnivorous grouch won’t know what he’s missing.
Daan Remarque is a psychologist and communications strategist.
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